COLORADO

COLORADO

TELLURIDE

EP
Could Telluride be one the prettiest spots on the planet? Its loyal fans think so. The resort’s setting at the terminus of a box canyon deep in Southern Colorado’s San Juan mountains lures many, but once they’re here, the many treasures of Telluride become apparent. From downtown’s shop-lined Colorado Avenue to the ski resort’s knee-knocking terrain, skiers just plain love this place. Accolades for Charm and Scenery ring true, and there never seem to be any lines at the lift or at the bar. The benefits of a remote location. Thanks to its variety of terrain—from the hike-to lines on Palmyra Peak to steep, sustained bumps off Apex Lift to the endless groomer cruising offered off the Village Express, Telluride has everybody covered. With the town’s Western character attracting an inviting community of locals, Telluride is known for its hospitable lodging and top-notch dining; wake up with a coffee and from-scratch pastry from the historic Baked in Telluride and then finish your day with some affordable and flavorful Thai food with ambiance to boot at Siam. Finally, by virtue of the free gondola shuttling people between Mountain Village and downtown, those seeking a hopping après and nightlife scene don’t leave disappointed.
—J.H.

COME FOR THE…

ON-MOUNTAIN FOOD Go for endless views, a cocktail, and crêpes for under $20 at Bon Vivant.
DOWN-DAY ACTIVITIES Reset your legs at The Peaks Resort’s spa in Mountain Village.
LODGING The Dunton Town House is an absolutely charming five-bedroom B&B in the heart of downtown—right by the gondola that whisks skiers up to the Mountain Village.

LOVELAND

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PW
The soulful gem of Colorado’s Front Range steps it up with over $5 million in upgrades, including the resort’s first high-speed quad. By speeding up ride time from eight minutes to a zippy three, the ski area will be able to disperse skiers higher on the mountain more quickly and get you from I-70 to the hill in no time. The Ridge remains the go-to for blown-in powder that stays fresh for days after a storm, but this season skiers can expect expanded snowcat skiing in Dry Gulch on Loveland’s northern boundaries, too. Season passholders have access to 32 partner resorts—Powder Alliance members and more—making Loveland a legit escape from the Epic and Ikon madness that surrounds it.

BRECKENRIDGE

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If you’ve skied Breck and don’t like it … it’s you, not the mountain. Let’s talk stats. Just shy of 3,000 acres of skiable terrain, six peaks, four terrain parks—one with a 22-foot superpipe. High-alpine terrain like few other resorts in Colorado. Fast and efficient lifts, plenty of on-mountain eats and suds. Oh, and the town of Breckenridge, complete with Main Street’s hopping restaurants, bars, shops, and all the mountain-town amenities you’re looking for. It’s crowded, you say. This is true. It’s expensive. Also, not untrue. Yet, if you know where to ski, it’s worth it. When conditions allow, the high-alpine is the place to be. There’s no magic password. If you’re an advanced to expert skier, this is for you: Colorado Super Chair → Chair 6 → Imperial Express. Offload point: 12,840 feet over the majestic Colorado Rockies. At your feet: Double-black-diamond adventure terrain, bowls, and chutes. You’ll never see Breck the same way again. Especially after you recount your day’s adventure over Ahi Tuna Nachos at Main Street’s Blue River Bistro. Best of both worlds.
—S.B.

COME FOR THE…

NIGHTLIFE Head to the Blue Stag Saloon for a selection of craft beers, a rotating tap, and a robust wine list in a woody, rustic ambience.
DINING A globally inspired menu is pleasing the skiing masses at Artisan 206, one the newest additions to Breck’s evolving culinary scene.
FAMILY EXPERIENCE Slide down the free communal tubing hill at Carter Park, a couple blocks off Main Street.

WHAT’S NEW

Loveland’s first high-speed quad, Chet’s Dream, will replace Chair 1, a fixed-grip triple, increasing capacity and reducing ride time by five minutes.

KEYSTONE

EP
Sometimes a dominant branding message works too well. For instance, Keystone is the “family resort” in the expanding Vail portfolio. Indeed, Keystone is one of the most family-friendly resorts on snow. But it’s also a lot more—for skiers willing to head to the outer reaches of the resort. For starters, Keystone is bigger than Breckenridge, has essentially the same vertical as Beaver Creek and boasts terrain variety darn close to Vail. We find that Keystone is vastly underrated by most people because it’s considered a family resort, but there’s actually a surprising amount of advanced and expert terrain. Give credit to just about any run on North Peak (fave: Cat Dancer) or The Outback (check out The Grizz glades) or pick any bowl rimming the resort’s high alpine. Yes, weekends and holidays can be bumper-to-bumper on the frontside, but efficient lifts move things along. River Run Village has enough going to get you to closing time, even if it’s not as hopping as, say, Vail or Breck. Anyway, you’ll be tired after a day of checking out all that new-found advanced terrain.
—G.D.

COME FOR THE…

LIFTS Last season. the Montezuma Express was replaced with a high-speed six-pack, which added even more efficiency to an already swift lift system.
FAMILY EXPERIENCE Kids 12 and under ski free when you book two nights lodging through Keystone rez. The deal is good all season. No blackouts.
TERRAIN VARIETY On a powder day, from the top of Dercum Mountain, take an early-morning hike up to The Windows. It’s an easy intro to hike-to turns for your young hotshots.

The Region

The Colorado Rockies are home to 26 ski resorts, which host 20-25 percent of skier visits in the U.S.

WOLF CREEK

Colorado’s powder haven remains fiercely independent in the face of massive resort buy-ups, and the family-owned ski area is investing heavily in the mountain. New for this season are revamped ski clinics, a new building and menu for the Alberta Grill, and a high-speed quad, the new Charity Lift, which grants additional access to intermediate terrain as well as connect advanced skiers to the Alberta Lift for steeper fall-line skiing.

VAIL

EP
The original Colorado behemoth continues to make its already world-class winter experiences better. To complement the reader-praised, numerous high-speed chairlifts spider-webbed throughout the mountain, the ski resort is investing in 10 new large-capacity, low-energy snowmaking fans to make early season turns under the Born Free Express even more delightful. When snowfall picks up, Vail will increase grooming operations in the famous Back Bowls this season by 30 percent, allowing more skiers to experience the joy of making turns down Morning Thunder, Genghis Kahn, and others. One thing that hasn’t changed for the better is price. Vail is expensive, with the steep cost of parking and lodging remaining the largest complaint from visitors and residents alike, but money will be the last thing on your mind when enjoying the views from Game Creek Bowl and Blue Sky Basin. When the lifts close, it’s hard to make a wrong choice for après, but we prefer getting a pizza at Vendetta’s or Normy style wings at Bart and Yeti’s. If you’re feeling fancy, end the day watching the alpenglow of the sunset on Vail’s frontside with a cocktail from Matsuhisa or a local pint at the Vail Brewing Company Taproom, followed by a stroll along the babbling Gore Creek before dinner at Mountain Standard or Russell’s.
—J.J.

COME FOR THE…

SNOW On storm skiing days, the crowds head to the Back Bowls, but the Northwoods area has phenomenal glades and visibility.
LODGING Spend some nights at The Sonnenalp or The Lodge at Vail for proper pampering that’s worth the price.
NIGHTLIFE When Shakedown Bar has live music, it’s hard to beat.

WINTER PARK

IK
This Front Range mountain has the distinction of being both a local’s hill and a destination resort, though recent and impending upgrades—including the return of the Winter Park Express from Denver’s Union Station and a 10-person gondola replacing the Zephyr Mountain Express—nudge it slightly over to the destination column. Regardless of where they’re coming from, skiers love WP for its high-alpine Parsenn Bowl terrain, the glades and hidden powder stashes in Vasquez Ridge, and, of course, Mary Jane’s legendary moguls, all less than 70 miles from Denver’s airport.

BEAVER CREEK

EP
The Beav’s reputation precedes it. Not a bad thing when what you’re known for is excellent grooming, lots of family terrain, one of the best ski schools in the industry, beautiful hotels, top-notch service, and delicious dining—on-mountain and off. Did we mention the free cookies served at the base at day’s end? The skiing itself is largely underrated—most visitors come expecting wide, groomed boulevards and mostly mellow terrain. And they leave satisfied, but so do those who come looking for world-class steeps (Birds of Prey, the men’s World Cup downhill), bumps (anything on Grouse Mountain), and extreme terrain (Stone Creek Chutes). And while Beaver Creek has always been a great place to learn, it gets even better with the debut of Haymeadow Park, complete with its own gondola and lift, sculpted terrain designed for newbies, and ice cream shop inside The Ranch restaurant. (This is in addition to Red Buffalo Park, the resort’s mountaintop beginner area that debuted last season.) No matter your skiing ability, everyone congregates in the cute village for a glide on the skating rink, drinks, dinner, or a stroll through an art gallery. There’s nothing wrong with expectations, especially when they’re met.
—S.B.

COME FOR THE…

FAMILY EXPERIENCE Allie’s Cabin offers a Family Dinner catered to the young ones, accessed via sleigh ride from the village.
GROOMING Bird of Prey, when its freshly brushed. Period.
DINING Settle in for a Euro-style leisurely lunch at SaddleRidge. The food is divine.
LODGING Stay at the Ritz-Carlton and get the Bachelor Gulch slopes mostly to yourself.

WHAT’S NEW

Big news for Copper skiers: The resort is replacing two chairs this season. The American Eagle becomes a chondola, with a mix of six-person high-speed chairs and eight-person gondola cabins that increases lift capacity by 40 percent. The American Flyer upgrades to a high-speed six-pack bubble chairlift—Colorado’s first.

COPPER MOUNTAIN RESORT

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Copper does lots of things well: The 2,465-acre resort has an excellent variety of naturally differentiated terrain that gets more challenging from west to east, and a seriously underrated high alpine filled with adventure terrain—plus a free snowcat to maximize your time there. For families, Copper is one of the best resorts to learn to ski thanks to stellar learning programs, (slightly) lower prices, and a down-to-earth vibe that makes you want to hang a little longer.

ARAPAHOE BASIN

EP
One of the longest ski seasons in the West, an authentic local vibe, and a new terrain expansion should land this homegrown Colorado favorite on your bucket list this season. From its throwback A-Frame base lodge to the Bacon Bloody Mary at Black Mountain Lodge, A Basin is an homage to the very best parts of the sport. And the terrain: Bomb down the steeps of Pallavicini Face, test your mettle on East Wall, or sample the goods in the Steep Gullies—the most extreme terrain at a resort known for its extreme terrain: tight chutes, high vert, high consequence. Be prepared for a 20-minute hike back—just the way the locals like it.

WHAT’S NEW

A quad opens in The Beavers, putting 339 acres of former hike-to steeps solidly within your grasp. Two blue runs are also added with the chairlift.

TOP SKI TOWNS

CRESTED BUTTE

EP
For decades Crested Butte locals have been trying to keep their quaint mining town and legendary steeps under wraps in hopes of preserving CB’s unique and funky spirit. But the cat’s out of the bag, and skiers far and wide are discovering that Crested Butte may actually be America’s last great ski town. CB’s downfall is also its advantage: it’s not easy to get to, but that’s what keeps the crowds away. Those willing to make the trek are rewarded with some of the best in-bounds, lift-accessed extremes in the country. It takes heaps of snow to cover CB’s rocky steeps, meaning in low snow years some of the most-prized terrain (Teo Bowls, Spellbound, Third Bowl) may not open until late season—if at all. If that’s the case, get out the carving skis and cruise the fun groomers, or hop on the shuttle to town and drown your sorrows at Montanya Distillers or Kochevar’s (a legendary watering hole since Butch Cassidy stopped in for a drink in 1902). Wherever you land, you’ll find the restaurants and shops of colorful Elk Avenue oozing with character. Now that Vail Resorts has snapped up CB, it remains to be seen if the resort’s spirit will prevail. We sure hope so.
—Jenny Wiegand

COME FOR THE…

CHALLENGE Download the CB Extremes app and pick your poison.
LOCAL FLAVOR Head to The Secret Stash for delicious pizza and experience CB in all its eccentric glory.

STEAMBOAT

IK
Tucked away in Colorado’s northwest corner, Steamboat Resort catches storm fronts tracking from both Utah and Wyoming, so it often boasts powder days when other areas report scant snowfall. Pair that trademarked “champagne powder” with Steamboat’s abundance of moderate-angle glades, and you get some of the best lift-served tree skiing anywhere. While there’s no off-the-chart extreme skiing here, the accessible terrain also makes it ideal for intermediates looking to get better, or a multigeneration ski trip that appeals to skiers of all ages: Grandparents and children alike can find their bliss on easygoing cruisers. Kid-centric ski instructors and a relaxed atmosphere round out the family appeal. Credit Steamboat’s distance from major cities (the closest is Denver, 150 miles away) for preserving authentic character at the resort and the adjacent town of Steamboat Springs. Homesteaders settled this cowboy town long before the lifts started spinning, and even now, you’ll see as many Stetsons as ski hats on downtown sidewalks. Don’t forget to bring yours.
—Kelly Bastone

COME FOR THE…

TERRAIN VARIETY The Shadows offers 2,000 vertical feet of tree skiing that begins among high-alpine spruces and ends in paper-white aspens.
LOCAL FLAVOR Check out—or enter, if it’s your thing—the Cowboy Downhill in mid-January.
DOWN-DAY ACTIVITIES Become Wild West outlaws at The Crooked Key, an escape room offering a fun, interactive game for all ages.
* These represent the major multi-resort offerings in season passes for 2018-’19 at press time. Also check individual resorts for single-resort passes, as well as pass options through states such as Utah, Colorado, Vermont, and more. ■

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